"There's one thing I know, Lord above/I ain't goin' to Goa." So sang the Alabama 3, a London band famous for singing the theme song for "The Sopranos" television series. "There ain't nothing worse than some fool lying on some third world beach wearing spandex, psychedelic trousers, smoking damn dope pretending he's gettin' consciousness expansion."

This about sums up a typical view of Goa , once a Portuguese colony situated about 400km down the Arabian Sea coast south of Mumbai, and long popular with hippy-styled Western backpackers. Sure, Goa still lures budget travellers with a yen for trance music and full-moon beach parties, but India's most laid-back state, also one of its smallest, has also become a hip destination for Mumbaikars seeking a beach-lined reprieve from the city. Returning visitors may be surprised to discover quite a few new boutique hotels, restaurants and bars.

This relatively new demand has helped fuel India's boom in budget airlines. A number of new carriers now exist solely to serve the Mumbai-Goa route, which takes just 50 minutes, and ordinary carriers offer some good deals on tickets.

With its relaxed pace of life, unique culture, breathtaking landscape, fabulous white-sand beaches and friendly locals, Goa is the perfect weekend antidote to Mumbai. The mountain range of the Western Ghats cuts Goa off from the rest of India; this natural barrier has let the area develop along different economic and cultural lines.

Then and now
For centuries, Goa was an important trading centre. The presence of the Portuguese (from the early 16th century to 1961, when India annexed the territory) profoundly influenced the state's hybrid Indo-European culture, affecting local attitudes about everything from food to religion. Catholics form a 30% minority, concentrated mainly along the coast and so remain highly visible to tourists. But most Goans are Hindu, and both religions co-exist peacefully.

Today, Goa is India's wealthiest state per capita. Although not free from hardship, most residents live in relative comfort. The ideal time to visit is between November and February, well after the monsoon season of June to September.

Getting around
Goa is easy to navigate, and relatively traffic-free. On a weekend break, eschew public transport and hire taxis (the ubiquitous white Maruti mini-van), which are inexpensive, but be sure to negotiate prices, as there are no meters. Hiring a taxi for a whole day is also common, and ensures that you do not waste precious time getting lost.

For those staying only one night, the surprisingly uncrowded beach at Bogmalo is just ten minutes' drive from Dabolim, Goa's airport (tel: +91 (0)832 254 0806). The Bogmallo Beach Resort (website) is decent, and all rooms have a picturesque sea view. There are some peaceful beachfront cafés, such as Sea Cuisine (tel: +91 (0)832 255 5969), where you can enjoy the Arabian Sea at sunset, less than four hours after stepping out the door in Mumbai.

On the beach--day and night
If you are in Goa for two nights, you must head either north or south; the coastline is too long and varied to cover both. The more developed--and more crowded--north is the easier option. A good base is the charming boutique Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel (tel: +91 (0)236 622 7631, website), at Querim, Goa's northernmost beach. Housed inside an old Portuguese fort, it has incredible sea views, well worth the 90-minute drive from the airport. It has only a handful of rooms, so be sure to book in advance. For something more upmarket, the nearby hilltop Nilaya Hermitage (website), Fort Tiracol's sister, is one of India's most exclusive addresses and a fine destination for an evening drink or meal.